Folegandros
in Cyclades

On the edge of Folegandros’s Chora, Anemomilos Boutique Hotel is a family-run getaway that looks out over the Aegean from the cliff where the village’s old windmill once stood. Down by the pool, a natural rock formation breaks through the teak wood deck, while eucalyptus trees provide shelter from the sun, with a prized view across to the church of Panagia.

Right on Agali Beach, this collection of rooms, suites and villas has a classic Cycladic exterior and uninterrupted views across the Aegean. Inside, the design is minimalist at its core, with natural wood, stone and crisp white linens alongside bohemian touches. It’s perfect for slow beach days, when you can wake up, step outside and head straight to the ocean for a swim. Plus, the morning breakfast is the perfect set-up for any island day.

Where the locals gather, O Psaromiligkas is a family-run taverna where the fish is fresh, the portions are generous and the tables look straight out over the bay. Here, the specials are the traditional and unfussy dishes. Think, grilled freshly-caught fish, served alongside plates of fava, Greek Salad, and a mound of tzatziki. A lunch which, quite rightly, stretches well into the afternoon. 

On Folegandros’s south-west coast, Livadaki is a small cove of white pebbles, clear water and a few pine trees that offer some welcome shade. There’s no taverna or sunbed in sight, so bring what you need for the day. You can get here by boat from Agali or on foot, with a 45-minute hike from Ano Meria. Afterwards, walk ten minutes to Aspropounta Lighthouse for wide-open Aegean views.

A self-proclaimed ‘sea refuge’, SPINA may have some remarkable suites, but it’s also home to a great osteria. Created by friends Matteo and Alessandro, the kitchen draws on both Greek and Italian influences, using ingredients foraged from their own vegetable patch beside the sea. Freshly caught fish is grilled over an open flame. Book well ahead, as tables fill up early, even with two sittings some evenings.

In the windy streets of Folegandros’s Chora, To Spitiko (literally ‘The Homemade’) is one of the island’s best laid-back tavernas. Order the matsata, the island’s hand-rolled pasta, served with a generous portion of rooster, rabbit or goat. The menu sticks to Greek staples, best shared around a table outside with a carafe of house wine. Come hungry, take your time and leave room for one more forkful of pasta.

In the heart of Chora, To Barbounaki is a laid-back favourite for freshly grilled fish and calamari. Order as many plates as your appetite allows, and settle in for an evening of exquisite seafood, a buzzing atmosphere, and a few carafes of house wine.