In the windy streets of Folegandros’s Chora, To Spitiko (literally ‘The Homemade’) is one of the island’s best laid-back tavernas. Order the matsata, the island’s hand-rolled pasta, served with a generous portion of rooster, rabbit or goat. The menu sticks to Greek staples, best shared around a table outside with a carafe of house wine. Come hungry, take your time and leave room for one more forkful of pasta.

In the heart of Chora, To Barbounaki is a laid-back favourite for freshly grilled fish and calamari. Order as many plates as your appetite allows, and settle in for an evening of exquisite seafood, a buzzing atmosphere, and a few carafes of house wine. 

Where the locals gather, O Psaromiligkas is a family-run taverna where the fish is fresh, the portions are generous and the tables look straight out over the bay. Here, the specials are the traditional and unfussy dishes. Think, grilled freshly-caught fish, served alongside plates of fava, Greek Salad, and a mound of tzatziki. A lunch which, quite rightly, stretches well into the afternoon. 

Right on Agali Beach, this collection of rooms, suites and villas has a classic Cycladic exterior and uninterrupted views across the Aegean. Inside, the design is minimalist at its core, with natural wood, stone and crisp white linens alongside bohemian touches. It’s perfect for slow beach days, when you can wake up, step outside and head straight to the ocean for a swim. Plus, the morning breakfast is the perfect set-up for any island day.