Where the locals gather, O Psaromiligkas is a family-run taverna where the fish is fresh, the portions are generous and the tables look straight out over the bay. Here, the specials are the traditional and unfussy dishes. Think, grilled freshly-caught fish, served alongside plates of fava, Greek Salad, and a mound of tzatziki. A lunch which, quite rightly, stretches well into the afternoon. 

In the windy streets of Folegandros’s Chora, To Spitiko (literally ‘The Homemade’) is one of the island’s best laid-back tavernas. Order the matsata, the island’s hand-rolled pasta, served with a generous portion of rooster, rabbit or goat. The menu sticks to Greek staples, best shared around a table outside with a carafe of house wine. Come hungry, take your time and leave room for one more forkful of pasta.

In the heart of Chora, To Barbounaki is a laid-back favourite for freshly grilled fish and calamari. Order as many plates as your appetite allows, and settle in for an evening of exquisite seafood, a buzzing atmosphere, and a few carafes of house wine. 

On the edge of Folegandros’s Chora, Anemomilos Boutique Hotel is a family-run getaway that looks out over the Aegean from the cliff where the village’s old windmill once stood. Down by the pool, a natural rock formation breaks through the teak wood deck, while eucalyptus trees provide shelter from the sun, with a prized view across to the church of Panagia.