Two Sumatran chefs, Samuel and Jimmy, opened Saji, an Indonesian soul food restaurant in a relatively unprepossessing central city address. The decor is simple: small tables are tightly packed into a bustling space, and bar-side stools wrap around the open kitchen. Attention is focused solely on the cooking. À la carte is always an option, though the main hit is the 7-course tasting menu that guarantees a thoughtful curation of remarkable flavours. Homemade shrimp dumplings surround a healthy dollop of peanut sauce, and a Mariah curry arrives with a gloriously yellow glow. The standout ikan bakar (charcoal-grilled fish) is, in this case, a Danish-caught yellowtail kingfish, perfectly tender and served with spicy pickle relish.