Giara di Gesturi
The wide basalt plateau of the Giara appears almost austere at first glance. Winds move through grasses and cork oaks, while seasonal ponds (the paulis) punctuate the landscape. Among them roam the Giara horses, a rare and ancient breed that has lived semi-wild here for millennia: small, dark and remarkably resilient to the plateau’s heat and wind. Walking trails cross this quiet landscape, offering a glimpse of one of Sardinia’s most unique ecosystems, just a short drive from Su Nuraxi di Barumini.
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A restored 19th-century Campidanese farmhouse near Gergei, Domu Antiga is a wonderfully intimate stay run by the Lai family. Its four rooms are dressed with handmade orbace textiles, while cooking and baking workshops offer a taste of Sardinian life – from hand-rolling potato-filled culurgionis to exploring nearby cheesemakers, vineyards and olive-oil producers. Just a half-hour drive from the Giara di Gesturi, we’re particularly fond of the homemade breakfast, laden with freshly baked cakes, tarts, and home-cured salami and ham.
Named after the Sardinian word for “signs”, Sinnos takes its cue from the marks once placed on sheep’s ears to distinguish one flock from another. The cheesemonger and shop is run by the family behind Domu Antiga in Gergei, with shelves laden with everything from creamy pecorino to punchy erborinato. Book a cheesemaking and tasting session to get a hands-on taste of one of the island’s oldest traditions.
