Su Nuraxi di Barumini
At the edge of the basaltic plateau of the Giara rises Su Nuraxi, Sardinia’s most extraordinary prehistoric complex and the island’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built more than three thousand years ago by the Nuragic civilisation, its circular, corbelled basalt towers once formed the heart of a fortified village – a mysterious stone labyrinth that still hints at one of the Mediterranean’s oldest cultures.
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A restored 19th-century Campidanese farmhouse near Gergei, Domu Antiga is a wonderfully intimate stay run by the Lai family. Its four rooms are dressed with handmade orbace textiles, while cooking and baking workshops offer a taste of Sardinian life – from hand-rolling potato-filled culurgionis to exploring nearby cheesemakers, vineyards and olive-oil producers. Just a half-hour drive from the Giara di Gesturi, we’re particularly fond of the homemade breakfast, laden with freshly baked cakes, tarts, and home-cured salami and ham.
Named after the Sardinian word for “signs”, Sinnos takes its cue from the marks once placed on sheep’s ears to distinguish one flock from another. The cheesemonger and shop is run by the family behind Domu Antiga in Gergei, with shelves laden with everything from creamy pecorino to punchy erborinato. Book a cheesemaking and tasting session to get a hands-on taste of one of the island’s oldest traditions.
