a wealth of wellness in Byron Shire
For New Zealanders like me, winters can be of the snow-globe variety. Magical and cosy but sometimes a little too insular, leaving locals itching to head beyond the perimetre of mountains.
Because sometimes a recharge comes through more action rather than rest. This year, my crawl out from under the spell of a long Southern Hemisphere winter meant falling into the arms of a neighbour. And fortunately, that neighbour is a basecamp for bohemians of every distinction.
The Northern Rivers area is known for being a bit of a woo-woo wonderland, but recently, it’s also seen an upswing of urban ideas and a curated luxury that has offset (or, perhaps, enhanced) the big hippy energy. If you’ve ever wondered what it’d be like to holiday inside a natural health store, Byron Shire is pretty much it.
Broken into village-sized bites, the area is best explored by car. Landing at Gold Coast International Airport and heading South, you’ll soon find yourself tracking the coastline and faced with the choice of how to ration your time: is it all beach and bare feet or a venture into the Hinterland for a subdued rainforest retreat?
Good news is, this land of plenty lends itself to a synthesised itinerary.
Every good remedy begins with good decompression, and both SOMA and Gaia are retreats set up to give it hardcore. Both offer the option to spend the night or simply pop in for a spa day. Both also allow you to forget the world outside still exists. As does a spell at Sun Ranch. The laid-back, ‘70s California ranch feels as if it’s been picked up by an Oz-ian twister and dropped in the middle of 55 acres of regenerated Australian farmland. It’s got all the trappings a modern, wellness-inclined cowgirl might need.
If you’re after something more self-led, stick closer in at Raes on Wategos—the famed beachfront hotel with a Mediterranean feel. AtSun Seeker, 1980s nostalgia bounces around the walls of a converted hotel in the centre of town. The place has a meticulous art book library, a tropical hideaway garden, a mineral pool and the option to have a fridge chock-a-block with goodies from Bay Grocer.
All delightful, no doubt, but there is one major side effect to the Byron Cure: you may never want to leave.
BYRON BAY
Reset your pace and reconnect to the present with a tea ceremony at Cloud Hidden Tea House, a contemporary space offering a return to traditional ways of being. Or if you, like me, are into dosing up on dopamine the adaptogenic way, a visit to Loco Love’s chocolate showroom will do the trick.
Brunching is a big deal in Australia, and cafés like High Life, The Bay Leaf and The Roadhouse are top-notch contenders. When evening rolls around, however, it has to be Bar Heather for a dinner of Parisian proportions. The restaurant and bar is renowned for elegant plates made with organic produce sourced from the best suppliers throughout the Northern Rivers.
Innovation and artistry can be found at Byron Arts & Industry Estate—a hub for creative makers and manufacturers. It’s also the spot to re-make yourself. A nice place to start is a stretch session at Creature Yoga. Then, toddle on down to Comma, the newly opened boutique bathhouse on Banksia Lane, to enjoy their magnesium hot tub and heated stone Hamman. If time is on your side, dive deeper into a replenishing do-up with a treatment at The Little Company or a sauna and cold-water immersion at Nimbus Co.
A zip around the corner to The Olive Place Deli or Peppe Pizza & La Bottega is ideal for stocking up on snacks or a slice of the Mediterranean. You may even hear Chef ‘Peppe’ belting Italian songs and culinary directives from the kitchen! If you need a book for the beach or a gift for a friend (or you), browse Bacteria Books, Braer Studio and Marsh Workwear nearby - all businesses run by young local friends.
MULLUMBIMBY
If soaking is the theme de jour, go from sea to spa at Kiva or The Banya in Mullumbimby. Fill your tum at Mullumbimby Continental, Rosetta Deli & Bistro or Ottilies before ending the day at The Middle Pub. If you’re just passing through, Baker and Daughters have a prime selection of bread, cakes and sandos—that’s sandwiches in Aussie parlance…
On Fridays in Mullumbimby, you’ll find locals filling their totes and rounding up barefooted cherubs at Mullum Markets. The first time I visited, my friend and I left with an enormous assortment of greens swaddled like a bouquet of flowers.
FEDERAL
Driving the 20 kilometres along the Coolamon Scenic Drive inland to Federal is a meditation in and of itself. But the real profundity awaits inside Nightcap National Park. The ancient World Heritage-listed rainforest is the ancestral land of the Widjabul People. The park holds ceremonial sites and sacred corners, which local Aboriginal people still use today. Marvel at the Minyon Falls Walking Track when you’re inside the park (weather permitting, as heavy rainfall can make driving treacherous.) You’ll find your footing amongst the roots of giant trees, as you take in the 104-metre waterfall in action. Hike down to the base for a dip in the falls’ pool and stop by Federal Doma Cafe to refuel with Japanese flair afterwards.
BRUNSWICK HEADS & NEW BRIGHTON
Beach days are always on in Brunswick and New Brighton, with Christmas Beach being especially great for kids and boats, as it’s right on the river mouth. If you’re hungry, end your marine moment with dinner at The Salty Mangrove, elevated ramen at Roco Ramen & Sake or a Mexican feast at La Casita.
So, wellness seekers! Once you unwind and settle into the freedoms offered up by this salubrious coastal life, prepare to meet a rare ‘home-but-on-holiday’ feeling.
Is it the 5th dimension?? Who knows! But being carefree and clothes-light, there's one thing you’ll know for certain: all is very much well again.
Rosie Fea
Words come easy for Rosie. So does exploration. Our favourite writer pal is a dreamer, a doer, and she most certainly knows how to live life. When Rosie travels, walking is the name of the game. She walks and walks and just keeps walking, taking in every last sight and sound as she goes. Armed with a notebook, a pen and a camera, Rosie hits the road and finds magical corners and captivating faraway spots. It’s almost as if she’s got a magnetic pull for hidden gems. To Greece! To Queenstown! To Ethopia! she goes. And we couldn’t be more thrilled to be tagging along with her.
