Cagliari
in Southern Sardinia

Founded in 1838 by Lazzaro Canepa, Antico Caffè has historically been the hangout for Cagliaritani. Looking straight onto the Bastione di Saint Remy, it was carefully restored in 1998 by the Ruggieri family and continues to embody the spirit of a Liberty-era café, where refined Sardinian dishes are served on marble-topped tables. Open from early-morning espressos to late nights of astice alla catalana (chilled lobster with olive oil, lemon, tomatoes, and red onion) and seafood fregula.

A breath of fresh air in Cagliari’s food scene, Aurea is a contemporary osteria from chef Teresa Galanti, who grew up in the northern city of Castelsardo in a family of fishermen. Opened in 2025 with pastry chef Luna Püz Olivares, this intimate spot puts Sardinia’s sea and seasons front and centre, with plenty of fermentation, preservation and house-made touches along the way. Think fish charcuterie with whipped butter and sourdough, or the catch of the day paired with fermented cherries and ponzu.

Cagliari’s grand limestone balcony, located at the edge of the Castello quarter, is the place to catch a breeze and a view. Climb the white marble staircase to the Terrazza Umberto I and the city unfolds below, with rooftops, harbour and the Monte Urpinu's pine tree. Beneath it runs the Galleria dello Sperone, a vaulted passage that occasionally turns into an exhibition space, giving this monumental lookout a quietly cultural twist.

Along Poetto’s seaside promenade, Bobocono is a favourite stop for a post-swim gelato. Expect creamy scoops from orange cheesecake to the evergreen (no pun intended) pistachio.

Overlooking Piazza Yenne, the elegant Caffè Svizzero has been a city institution since 1901. Recently renovated, it remains a go-to meeting spot for locals, who gather beneath the wide outdoor parasols or inside at marble tables over espresso or spritz (often with a copy of L'Unione Sarda in hand). Open from breakfast through dinner, it serves custard-filled cornetti and pizzette sfoglia (flaky puff pastries topped with tomato, capers and anchovies) alongside Danish pastries and an extra-sweet Vietnamese iced coffee.

Corso Dodici has been a favourite local address since opening in 2013. Part bistro, part cocktail spot, it pairs comforting Sardinian flavours with contemporary flair – from silky cacio e pepe to tender octopus served on a smooth chickpea cream. Inside, warm wood, soft lighting and vintage objects create an inviting, slightly retro atmosphere where a quick dinner easily turns into a long, convivial evening.

With several locations scattered across the city, Dulcis is Cagliari’s go-to stop for anyone with a sweet tooth. Specialising in traditional Sardinian confectionery, its dark wooden counters are filled with local favourites such as saffron-scented ricotta pardulas, raisin-studded pabassine and gueffus – delicate almond-paste bonbons wrapped in colourful tissue paper.

Set on a quiet residential street just beyond Cagliari’s historic centre, Villa Fanny occupies a restored early-20th-century villa surrounded by manicured gardens. Inside, exposed wooden beams and airy rooms open onto lawns dotted with white wrought-iron tables and a glass-covered veranda with its distinctive black-and-white tiled floor. Curated by owner Lucina Cellino and named after her mother, the hotel doubles as a small cultural hub, hosting exhibitions, readings and gatherings that reflect a family passion for art. By evening, the garden fills with locals and guests lingering over aperitivo beneath the shade of the trees.

An institution since 1914, Il Lido has evolved since then far beyond a classic beach club. Set within its sleek white structure, it gathers some of the liveliest spots on the shoreline – from a café, two seafood restaurants and a pizzeria to rotating fashion boutiques, an ice cream store and an evening club. From morning espresso to late-night dancing, it remains a favourite meeting point for Cagliaritani by the sea.

While ordering a quick espresso at the bar remains the quintessential Italian ritual, specialty coffee is still something of a rarity in Cagliari. L'Atypical, a passion project by friends Carol and Ludovica, brings a much-needed breath of fresh air to the city's coffee scene. Expect some of the best flat whites and cortados in town, brewed with care in the cosy city-centre café. And if you find yourself craving their coffee long after you've left, you're in luck – their house-roasted beans are available to take home too.

At Luigi Pomata, Sardinian tradition meets a cosmopolitan sensibility, shaped by the chef’s roots in the island of Carloforte and years in kitchens from New York to London. Known as the “chef of red tuna,” don’t miss his iconic Girotonno tasting – an inventive journey through tuna, from tonno tonnato and tartare with mozzarella foam to ventresca with aubergine and toasted hazelnuts–showcasing the ingredient at its best.

Among Cagliari’s many Neapolitan-style pizzerias, Maiori is the one we keep coming back to. Tucked into the courtyard of Palazzo Doglio, its white-stucco interiors and organic shapes make a polished setting for Chef Emanuele Riemma’s distinctly Campanian-meets-Sardinian pizzas. Our tip? Order the one topped with pizzutello yellow tomatoes and Sardinian dried sausage, then finish with the rum-soaked babà for a little taste of the Amalfi Coast.

On the edge of Cagliari’s Castello district, Palazzo Boyl is set a neoclassical residence built in 1840 on the city’s former Pisan walls. Today the restored Liberty cream-coloured palace is an intimate boutique hotel, its sea-facing windows opening onto views of the harbour and the historic centre below. Along the marble balustrade, statues of the four seasons quietly preside, while tucked within the palace stands the Torre del Leone – a 14th-century Pisan tower still bearing cannonballs from the sieges that once rattled the city.

Tucked beside the marble exterior of the Chiesa Collegiata di Sant’Anna, this small spot keeps Sardinia’s deep bread traditions alive. Run by the Pintus brothers, it gives a contemporary twist to the island's shepherd dishes – most famously pani frattau, where crisp carasau bread is softened in broth, layered with tomato and aged pecorino. Other local classics appear too, including zichi topped with slow-cooked meat stew ghisadu.

This former salt-producing landscape has become one of the Mediterranean’s most unusual urban nature reserves. Shallow pink-hued salt pans stretch across the wetlands, where flocks of flamingos wade year-round. Walking and cycling paths are available throughout the lagoons, and visitors can explore the park by bike, on horseback or simply on foot, making it ideal for birdwatching and sunset strolls between city and sea.

A family-run business since 1955, now with five locations across town, Pirani serves breakfast pastries and cakes alongside a glorious culurgiones dumpling on pecorino fondue with Sichuan pepper, broad beans and balsamic sauce. At its newest spot inside the elegant Palazzo Doglio, make sure to try its pizzetta sfoglia (flaky puff pastry topped with tomato, capers and anchovies) for a serious taste of Cagliari.

Cagliari’s beloved beach stretches for eight kilometres along the southern edge of town, a long sweep of pale sand backed by lidos and pastel kiosks. From early morning swims to sunset aperitivo, Poetto is where the pulse of local life is found.

At the recently reimagined Marinella, large glass windows open onto the sea, while the terrace has views of the Gulf of Angels and the distant Sella del Diavolo. Inside, the café pairs classic pastries with ginseng or pistachio cappuccinos, while upstairs the terrace restaurant and pizzeria serve seaside plates. Our tip? Try the spaghetti with red lobster or the pizza finished with mullet bottarga.