Founded in 1838 by Lazzaro Canepa, Antico Caffè has historically been the hangout for Cagliaritani. Looking straight onto the Bastione di Saint Remy, it was carefully restored in 1998 by the Ruggieri family and continues to embody the spirit of a Liberty-era café, where refined Sardinian dishes are served on marble-topped tables. Open from early-morning espressos to late nights of astice alla catalana (chilled lobster with olive oil, lemon, tomatoes, and red onion) and seafood fregula.

Cagliari’s grand limestone balcony, located at the edge of the Castello quarter, is the place to catch a breeze and a view. Climb the white marble staircase to the Terrazza Umberto I and the city unfolds below, with rooftops, harbour and the Monte Urpinu's pine tree. Beneath it runs the Galleria dello Sperone, a vaulted passage that occasionally turns into an exhibition space, giving this monumental lookout a quietly cultural twist.

On the edge of Cagliari’s Castello district, Palazzo Boyl is set a neoclassical residence built in 1840 on the city’s former Pisan walls. Today the restored Liberty cream-coloured palace is an intimate boutique hotel, its sea-facing windows opening onto views of the harbour and the historic centre below. Along the marble balustrade, statues of the four seasons quietly preside, while tucked within the palace stands the Torre del Leone – a 14th-century Pisan tower still bearing cannonballs from the sieges that once rattled the city.

A family-run business since 1955, now with five locations across town, Pirani serves breakfast pastries and cakes alongside a glorious culurgiones dumpling on pecorino fondue with Sichuan pepper, broad beans and balsamic sauce. At its newest spot inside the elegant Palazzo Doglio, make sure to try its pizzetta sfoglia (flaky puff pastry topped with tomato, capers and anchovies) for a serious taste of Cagliari.