On the edge of Folegandros’s Chora, Anemomilos Boutique Hotel is a family-run getaway that looks out over the Aegean from the cliff where the village’s old windmill once stood. Down by the pool, a natural rock formation breaks through the teak wood deck, while eucalyptus trees provide shelter from the sun, with a prized view across to the church of Panagia.

In the heart of Chora, To Barbounaki is a laid-back favourite for freshly grilled fish and calamari. Order as many plates as your appetite allows, and settle in for an evening of exquisite seafood, a buzzing atmosphere, and a few carafes of house wine. 

In the windy streets of Folegandros’s Chora, To Spitiko (literally ‘The Homemade’) is one of the island’s best laid-back tavernas. Order the matsata, the island’s hand-rolled pasta, served with a generous portion of rooster, rabbit or goat. The menu sticks to Greek staples, best shared around a table outside with a carafe of house wine. Come hungry, take your time and leave room for one more forkful of pasta.