Deeply seasonal in her approach, Ruth Rogers – the owner of this Thames-side Italian – prioritises ingredients above all else. Annual olive oil tastings in Tuscany come under chefs’ perks, and while the bill may pack a punch, it’s a credit to this ethos that a visit is always worth it. Go big on the antipasti, followed by primi pasta (tagliarini with white pork ragù, perhaps), and you could skip a secondi altogether. No booking? Try The River Café Café next door, which holds space for walk-ins.



