This is an old-school drinking den that still feels like a boozer, with London’s best burger on the menu. Chefs Ed McIlroy and Jamie Allan, known as Four Legs, also cook up creative plates of sole swimming in brown butter and cod cheek with jamón and mojo rojo. But for first timers it has to be the slightly sloppy Dexter burger, which is just as good as everyone says.

A lively neighbourhood joint co-founded by the Three Sheets guys, with a short bistro menu and lots of natural wine. The online Shop Cuvee, born during the pandemic, is still the best destination for the prettiest bottle gifts, but head to the restaurant to chat to friendly staff who will happily guide you through the largely French wine list. Take their pick and then get stuck into plates of charcuterie, pickles and bread.

People make a pilgrimage from south London to slurp bowls of spicy soup in this tiny Chinese canteen – few foods are more restorative than its slippery hand-pulled biang biang noodles. Regulars will go for the cold sesame version paired with lots of pork and seaweed pot-sticker dumplings. Quick, easy and affordable, it’s a brilliant insider address.