In a former laundrette in a slightly obscure corner of Highbury is the fishy sibling of north London favourites Primeur and Jolene. The old industrial block space is dominated by communal tables, the menu by the Cornish catch of the day – from mussels to monkfish. A banger of a neighbourhood restaurant in a previously overlooked enclave.

This understated noodle bar is a study in flavour, bringing together Malay and Chinese influences in the signature laksas. The soups are sour with a not- insignificant spicy kick (first timers should definitely stick to mild) and the Malaysian fried chicken is grease- free and crisp. An affordable midweek supper spot that never disappoints.

With a chef from St. John and a multi-layered potato cake to rival The Quality Chop House, Saltine makes no secret about its inspiration. Founders Mat Appleton and Jess Blackstone are also behind north London mini coffee empire Fink’s. And while the exposed brick space is a little predictable, the genuine and charming staff maintain Saltine’s spot as a solid Highbury favourite.

This is an old-school drinking den that still feels like a boozer, with London’s best burger on the menu. Chefs Ed McIlroy and Jamie Allan, known as Four Legs, also cook up creative plates of sole swimming in brown butter and cod cheek with jamón and mojo rojo. But for first timers it has to be the slightly sloppy Dexter burger, which is just as good as everyone says.