Eleanor Roosevelt, on seeing Iguazú for the first time, reportedly said poor Niagara. The numbers give some indication of why: 275 individual waterfalls spread across nearly three kilometres of subtropical forest, with the Garganta del Diablo dropping 82 metres into a permanent cloud of mist that the resident swifts navigate by instinct. The scale is not something photographs prepare you for, which is unusual in an age when most famous landscapes have been over-documented into submission. Both sides reward the visit: the Argentine park puts you closer to the water, on walkways that extend over the falls themselves, while the Brazilian side offers the panoramic view that reveals the full extraordinary width of the system. Stay two nights, cross the border, and give the coatis the respect they do not deserve and will demand regardless.

