It took six French polishers eight weeks to revive the woodwork in this next-generation Mayfair boozer from Hauser & Wirth owners Artfarm. It’s part pub, part contemporary gallery, and the ceiling, painted a kaleidoscopic patchwork, offsets all the dark panelling. There are craft beers on tap – and on the wall, the latter in a work by Canadian artist Rodney Graham. A pioneer of the new breed of British publicans putting a spotlight on the bits that work and giving everything else a good scrub.


