Part of Soho’s modern wave of Sri Lankan restaurants (along with Hoppers and Kolamba), Paradise is now tasting-menu-only and a little more experimental than its contemporaries. The pol roti is puffed up over charcoal and topped with a glazed freshwater prawn and a zingy coconut sambol. A traditional meat curry is made with beef sirloin from Kent and served with a rich Kandy-style sunflower seed curry that’s poured at the table. Bold, innovative flavours that haven’t had as much hype as they deserve.


