When chef Matthew Ryle arrived on Duke Street in 2021 his contemporary French menu was a runaway success. At lunch the lofty space is full of art dealers negotiating over Comté gougères and plates of rotisserie chicken. Don't skip pudding, which arrives in trolley form: a stack of drawers neatly filled with madeleines, macarons and mousses. Its easy-going sibling in Borough Yards is another good lunchtime spot for croque monsieur flatbreads and French onion soup.


