The regulars will happily point you to this easy-to-miss spot on the main road through Praiano. Stand at the bar for a strong espresso in the morning, or take a seat on the terrace for an aperitivo overlooking the Church of San Gennaro (Saint Januarius) and the bay below, with Vespas whizzing past. A delicious pit stop for a post-hike panino near Il Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods).

Gennaro Galani – Piccoletto to his amici – cooks, serves and chooses the playlist entirely by himself in this 20-seat wine bar. The wine list is a main draw – well-chosen local bottles at prices that put the rest of the Costiera to shame. The blackboard menu follows whatever's fresh – seafood, pasta, and the occasional meat dish. Sit outside if you can, with a reservation that was booked well ahead of high season.

A small-town restaurant on a terrace draped in vines, with colourful mismatched chairs and the coast stretching out below – the kitchen works to a seasonal, locally sourced menu plated up more prettily than the average trattoria. Spaghetti with razor clams, a black truffle pasta and come autumn, pumpkin finds its way into everything, including a very good tortello. Save space for the babà au rhum with vanilla cream and sour cherries.

This legendary beach club hovers in a liminal space between land and sea, etched into the foot of the cliff just outside Praiano. Founded in 1960 by Casimiro and Pasqualina, today their children Rino and Vera roll out plate after plate of delicate prawns, just-netted fish and fresh Costiera vegetables to tables on top of the rocks with waterside sun loungers perfect for the postprandial doze.