Since 1986, Armandino and his wife Carmela have run this simple trattoria right on the water at Marina di Praia – the fishing inlet carved into the cliffs below Praiano. Armandino works the floor while Carmela runs the kitchen: marinated anchovies, tubetti con totani (short pasta with squid), and fresh fritto misto are the hits to order. Tables sit virtually on the beach.

A small-town restaurant on a terrace draped in vines, with colourful mismatched chairs and the coast stretching out below – the kitchen works to a seasonal, locally sourced menu plated up more prettily than the average trattoria. Spaghetti with razor clams, a black truffle pasta and come autumn, pumpkin finds its way into everything, including a very good tortello. Save space for the babà au rhum with vanilla cream and sour cherries.

"Ca' P'a" is what its nearest and dearest call this restored fishing home overlooking a cove just west of Praiano – one night and you'll be part of the family too. Luxury on a jewel-like scale: just seven rooms sharing sprawling gardens and a private rocky outcrop. The stroll to shore – where the rocks have been levelled out to accommodate snap-happy sun loungers – weaves between fruit trees and vegetable patches which contribute to the restaurant menu.

The regulars will happily point you to this easy-to-miss spot on the main road through Praiano. Stand at the bar for a strong espresso in the morning, or take a seat on the terrace for an aperitivo overlooking the Church of San Gennaro (Saint Januarius) and the bay below, with Vespas whizzing past. A delicious pit stop for a post-hike panino near Il Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods).