Run by a Vietnamese family on Rue Vaugelas, Mamie Anh draws a lunchtime queue for its bò bún, soft bánh bao, and a vegetarian bánh mì served on a baguette baked in-house. The portions are generous and the seasoning straightforward (bring your own hot sauce if you like things properly Vietnamese-spicy). Take it away for a picnic on the Pâquier lawns or squeeze into one of the few indoor seats. This is a small, unfussy address that locals tend to get protective about and visitors often stumble upon by accident.

Climb the stairs above Rue du Pâquier and the wood-panelled dining room of L'Étage is exactly the kind of Savoyard institution every Alpine town should have. The fondue is properly aged and generous, the cheese-stuffed feuilleté a quiet standout, and the omelette norvégienne the right way to finish a heavy meal. Order the grilled lake-caught trout for a slightly lighter option. We'd recommend booking the upstairs room for atmosphere. 

Forget couture and fridge magnets – Annecy's finest souvenir comes wrapped in paper. Run by Meilleur Ouvrier de France Pierre Gay since 1935, this tiny cheese shop is a paradise for fromage lovers, with more than 120 carefully curated cheeses, all matured in the spectacular glass-fronted cellar downstairs.

Small, stylish and brilliantly located, La Cour du 6 sits just minutes from the lake, the old town and the station. Its 21 thoughtfully designed rooms showcase the work of local artisans through marble, ceramics and handcrafted ironwork, while the lively brasserie downstairs is reason enough to drop by, whether you're staying overnight or not.