Tucked into Passage de la Cathédrale, Baïda is the breakfast room locals queue for on a Saturday. The menu is short and unfussy: Turkish eggs with a proper hit of garlic, breakfast buns with veggie bacon, chocolate brioche to ask for double-toasted. All gluten-free, vegan or vegetarian, none of it tastes like compromise. The flat whites are excellent, the homemade lemonades better. The room is intimate enough to feel like a secret, which makes it ill-suited to large groups but ideal for two over the morning paper. Pair with a wander through the old town.




