Yellow ball lampshades hang low, mid-century bar stools cradle the oak-carved, baby-blue, topped bar, wildly patterned mosaic tiles line the floor, and panelled walls hug the huge front windows; this is Café Service, the Neo-bistro that took over the beloved, neighbourhood institute that was Stanny. A sharing-plate feast of local, seasonal produce elevates the bistro classics: deviled eggs are served on fin-de-siècle plates, a starter of endive quiche is stuffed with goat cheese and quince compote, and a perfectly grilled brill fillet arrives larger than the dish it's served upon. The food is exceptional, the atmosphere even better.


