Two hours from Rome and feeling considerably further. Abruzzo is the Italy that the grand tour missed: Apennine peaks above 2900 metres, three national parks, Marsican brown bears moving through the beech forests of the Parco Nazionale, and an Adriatic coastline that has stayed largely free of the development that consumed the coasts further south. The hilltop villages here have the lived-in quality of places that never had to perform for visitors because the visitors mostly went elsewhere. The food is shepherds' food, honest and very good: arrosticini grilled over embers, pasta alla chitarra with lamb ragù, saffron from the Navelli plateau that supplies some of the finest in the world. Abruzzo is the region Italians know about and visitors are only beginning to find. The window for arriving before it gets complicated may not stay open much longer.
If we had to pick a destination in Italy for food, it would probably be Emilia Romagna. We love this region for its Parmigiano Reggiano, its balsamico and the beautiful, undulating countryside.
Once synonymous with rural poverty, the “underground city” of Matera has re-emerged as one of Italy’s most breathtaking destinations, with its Sassi cave districts cascading down the rock face in a labyrinth of stone dwellings, rupestrian churches, and hidden stairways now home to candlelit cave hotels and sweeping gorge views.
If you haven’t been and aren't dying to go to Tuscany, we think you must be confused. Rolling, verdant hills and charming, picturesque towns abound. And let’s not forget about the Chianti!
Umbria is definitely one of Italy’s greenest regions. Love it! Explore its mediaeval hamlets, hunt for truffles or glug as much of the region's olive oil and wine as you can.