sabe a Perú: the flavours of Lima
For Peruvians, food is the ultimate love language – a way to please, forgive and communicate with each other. Eating unites them, heals them and, many times, distracts them from the often wildly comedic turbulence that surrounds them politically almost every day. Why is Lima such a gastronomical A-lister?
Three things seam to make the experience unique: the produce that emerges out of many varied ecosystems - Coast, Andes, and Jungle - the history and fusion with other cultures, and the way the people who live there love to look after others and take pride in sharing our cooking and culture. The best food city in the world? Here are the spots the locals wouldn’t miss….
dawn chorus
This is where Peru and Venezuela combine their “sazón” (flavour). It’s an elite spot for a warm and soothing brunch. Revel in the emblematic Tequeños or Cachapa and, if you are not in the mood for cheesy delights but drawn to sugary delicacies, a fruity chia pudding or a cruffin flan will do the trick alongside an orange cold brew.
A breakfast staple, specializing in sourdough bread. They have mastered their craft here in avo toasts and pastries to lift morning grogginess. This simple but iconic spot is a ladies’ go-to after yoga, and perfect for what Peruvians call “lonche” - an afternoon meal taken at around 6pm and popular among the elders. It has a habit of replacing dinner if it becomes too extravagant. Whether it is for a savory roast beef sandwich or a sticky morning bun, el Pan de la Chola has enamored every Limeño.
For a very Peruvian brekky, La Preferida is where you should go. We start the day with huachana sausage or a pan con pejerrey (a deep fried fish sandwich), but only the most patriotic will chug a leche de tigre (ceviche marinade) just like a Brit might wake up to an Earl Grey with milk. A very casual, very local place for a morning banquet.
nom nom
Located among the antique houses in Barranco, this traditional tavern is a creole dreamland and an ode to authentic Peruvian cuisine. Pair a Pisco Sour or a Chicha Morada (refreshing purple corn drink) with our favorites, Lomo saltado (tender beef stir-fried with onions and tomatoes, served with crisp fries and rice) or Aji de Gallina (shredded chicken in a creamy Aji amarillo sauce). Us Peruvians care a lot about dessert, and at Isolina it will be none other than a heirloom recipe, Picarones: pumpkin and sweet potato donuts smothered with Chancaca (a sugarcane, orange peel and cinnamon honey-like sauce). Once you’re tipsy and on the verge of a food coma you can finally leave, that's how we do it.
A quintessential little cevicheria. A hidden gem for first-timers, a lucky find for frequent visitors, and for locals, a national treasure. I recommend this place if you are willing to try real ceviche, one that will mark a before and after in your culinary lifetime. The vibes are always high in this place and that’s because it is totally unpretentious. Canta Rana has the feel of a classic dive bar without being one. Expect soccer memorabilia, antique pictures, wooden tables and generous portions. In Canta Rana we all hum in excitement as we wait for the feast to come.
Maido
When Maido became a sensation back in 2017, it was ranked as the 11th best restaurant in the world. Since then, they have secured a spot in the World’s 50 Best list year after year, currently holding the 5th spot. Maido is a Nikkei restaurant, a food genre that focuses on the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. Through chef Mitsuharu Tsumura’s expertise, you will be taken on a flavourful journey of his heritage through mind-blowing tasting menus. Maido is nothing less than an experimental, bold, and layered fine-dining experience, those that don't happen often.
slips down nicely
Travel back into the time of prohibition as you walk into this dimly-lit, classy speakeasy to enjoy the most seductive drinks. Claimed as the best bar in Lima for the last couple of years, Sastreria Martinez is an elegant cocktail bar that serves signatures with a twist in eye-opening presentations. Perfect for a private night of deliciousness.
The hippest bar in Barranco. I'm talking natural wines, a cellar filled with organic fizzy cavas, hand selected vinyls spinning all night long - coupled with really good food. This place was made for “drinks and a light bite” or for a night out with friends or lovers that will get groovy after four glasses of orange wine.
a cultural institution in the city
The best place for Pollo a la Brasa, which is literally your typical rotisserie chicken, just better. Everything they offer is immaculate: lettuce haters devour their salad, those allergic to gluten enjoy their bread… and don’t get me started on their home-made mayonnaise. The star of the show is, of course, the chicken. It is hard to promote a chicken, so I will just trust you’ll go - or cross paths with a local that will force you to.
Titi is an incomparable chifa, and although it is a family tradition of mine to physically go, sometimes it just feels right to eat pork Chaufa (fried rice) snuggled on the couch. Chifa is the name given to the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisines. Just like there is no shortage of bistros in Paris, there would never be one of Chifas in Lima, and TITI is by far the best.
Lastly, drive-by La Lucha for a life-changing Pan con Chicharrón, the best Peruvian sandwich. It is simple, straightforward and “taipá” - slang for well-served and filling. This otherworldly sandwich is made of sweet potato, fried pork belly, and a zesty citrus sauce made with onions and lime, all served on a hot-from-the-oven baguette bread. Arguably a tourist favorite and for locals, nothing less than a bite from heaven.
the full feast
Arguably the best Italian restaurant in Lima, Pasta is my favorite because it maintains a laid-back vibe while simultaneously delivering superb dishes. Since its opening in 2019, the restaurant doesn't have an empty table and always boasts a queue of those who forgot to make reservations. Pasta can be a casual dinner to catch up with dad, date night before the theater or aperitivo with your high school friends.
The promised land for those devoted to Japanese food. Just like Maido, Osaka serves Nikkei cuisine, only not in the tasting-menu gourmand way. Whatever it is you order here, from cocktails to dessert, for lunch or for dinner, your palate will be ecstatically grateful!. However, Osaka can be a bit too fancy for those looking for a casual nigiri night, so for those looking for a laid-back but still outstanding sushi spot, I couldn't recommend Tomo or Matsuei (my personal go-to) more.
I would say there is a tie between Cosme and Osaka when it comes to people's favourite restaurant in Lima. Cosme is a cozy restaurant that seeks to deliver homey but quality food. Think high-end comfort foods, and nostalgia-inducing dishes with a gourmand twist. In this vibrant place of colour, joy and sustainability, seasonal and fresh ingredients take center stage, along with traditional flavours cooked in modern techniques.
Lia Mongrut
