Established in the 1970s by a family of artisanal skincare experts, Biologique Recherche has taken the world by storm from New York to Hong Kong. However, it remains firmly rooted in Paris. Merging science-backed skincare with hospitality, their expert product lines are exclusively available in spas and hotels.
The first time I heard about Biologique Recherche, someone had mentioned one of their cult products. The radiant Danish creative Pernille Teisbaek told me her skincare secret: P50. “It has changed my complexion entirely, and I can’t go without it anymore.” Suffice to say, I was intrigued. Diving into the Biologique Recherche universe left me puzzled at first – with over 160 products, picking a product almost felt like calculus. But highly personalised skincare might just be best thing you can do for your skin. Or as Pierre-Louis Delapalme, chairmain of Biologique Recherche, puts it, “Skin is so fascinating because it’s a living organ that renews itself every 28 days. Just imagine what you can do and improve in those 28 days! That’s where never-ending research comes in; we work in a scientific way with a creative approach."
On a crisp, sunny morning, I’m invited to the Biologique Recherche Ambassade at the Champs-Élysées for a bespoke facial. I march from the bustling boulevard through a stone archway and into a peaceful courtyard abutting a historic building, the Ambassade. Dubbed Ambassades because they serve as a passport to French culture and its notion of beauty, these headquarters of sorts are dotted around the globe – Los Angeles, Shanghai, Rome, Stockholm, Brussels and two in Paris, as well as six more opening this year. Rupert Schmid (the other chairman) explains, “Beauty is culture. My wife always likes to joke ‘You may be calling then ambassades, but you’re not an ambassador!’”
Biologique Recherche is not a retail brand; you can’t just buy the products in any shop. The approach is so tailored to an individual’s needs that it’s essential to have an expert’s take on your skin before getting started. Another quality that sets Biologique Recherche apart? Its commitment to pure, unadulterated efficacy. The formulations, often heralded as skincare alchemy, are crafted with scientific rigour and a high concentration of active ingredients.
I’m slightly nervous as before the treatment. We’re going to test four skin parameters with a little machine: hydration, skin barrier function, sebum production and elasticity. Luckily, the results aren’t too worrying; my hydration can be upleveled, my skin barrier strengthened. These can all be improved fairly quickly with some loving care, explains Arnaud, my facial therapist for the day. Kind and knowledgeable, he instantly makes me feel at ease. I relax as he guides me through the hallway to one of the luxury treatment rooms. As I lie down, he asks me to take three deep breaths. He then walks me through my custom skincare routine, streamlined and efficient with a selection of about six products. By the end, I get treated to a green algae mask: a sheet tissue is applied to my skin, then my face is wrapped in cotton gauze and a cooling paste – it’s also called “the cold mask” – is applied all over. It feels quite heavy, which makes me relax even more deeply. Arnaud massages it in with two face rollers. I feel really pampered. Afterwards, he hands me a little mirror; my skin looks plump, firm, clear, happy.
The next day I hop on a call with Biologique Recherche’s Rupert Schmid and Pierre-Louis Delapalme. Fresh off the plane from Asia, they are home for the holidays before jetting off to Val d'Isère and Brasil. I chat to them about their love of the brand, how skincare ties into hospitality and their hometown, Paris.
How did you get involved with Biologique Recherche?
Rupert: “It’s a woman’s story. My mother-in-law was a dear friend of Josette Allouche, a physiotherapist and the founder of Biologique Recherche, back in the 1970s. My mother-in-law tested out a lot of the skincare products and spent afternoons drinking tea and having treatments at the Champs-Élysées. When I found out Josette was selling her business, I reached out to Pierre. Then another woman’s story comes into play: our wives have been best friends since they were five years old. They decided that we were capable enough to take on this job. (Laughs) That’s how, 17 years ago, we started working together on expanding this beautiful brand.”
It has such a rich heritage. What draws you in?
Pierre-Louis: “Personalisation is key to how we distinguish ourselves. To excel in our field, a substantial depth of expertise, knowledge and craftsmanship is indispensable. The passionate people involved in this process play a crucial role – from those conducting skin diagnoses to those hosting our cherished guests. Our commitment to innovation is evident; we’re not obsessed with trends but with results, science, education. Just because vitamin C serums are fashionable and coveted right now is no incentive for us to launch one. We’d rather opt for a carefully formulated, perfume-free concoction of different actives. In that sense, we’re a bit of a rare breed.”
Biologique Recherche is a global brand, but its Parisian origins are very evident. What makes the city so special to you?
P-L: “From an architectural point of view, the city is highly protected. There are very few new buildings, and the Haussmannian style is omnipresent. Of course, Paris is always in flux, and that’s what keeps things interesting, but its very own cultural wealth persists. I come from a line of Parisians who’ve been here since the 17th century. That doesn’t happen too often. People usually move away to the countryside at some point. There’s still a lot of traffic jams in Paris, but people are cycling more.”
What would a perfect day in Paris look like?
R: “The best way to discover the city is by foot; I can walk around Paris for hours and days. An area that I love is Furstemberg in the 6th arrondissement.”
P-L: ”If you like antiques, there are the many flea markets, such as Saint Ouen, with small bistros all around. I love to visit Hôtel des Ventes Drouot for a diverse array of exceptional exhibitions and auctions under one roof. In summertime, I head to Auberge du Bonheur in the Bois de Boulogne, which gives a feel of being up in the trees, as if you’ve escaped the city while in fact you haven’t.’
Biologique Recherche is mostly used in hotels. What's the connection to hospitality?
P-L: “The initial plan was for the brand to only be available in spas, not necessarily hotels. Then, thirteen years ago, the team at the Four Seasons in Hong Kong and The Peninsula in New York reached out to us. We discovered we share many values with hospitality brands. If you think of it, a hotel is basically a room, a bed, a tv, but the challenge there is to differentiate. Which is what we’ve been doing all along but then in the spa space.”
If you had the opportunity to put Biologique Recherche in any hotel in the world. Which would it be?
R: “Over the past fifteen years, we managed to be in the places we wanted. Some dream places are Capri Palace in Italy, Hôtel Lily of the Valley in France and the Four Seasons in the mountains of Whistler, Canada, which is spectacular.”
What’s your vision for Biologique Recherche’s future?
R: “Today, it’s all about the short term, but we envision Biologique Recherche fifty years from now so it can still thrive without us. The passion for beauty is immense all around the world, and that drives us. The best reward is when people come out of a treatment smiling; it’s all about the experience. We aim to bring a plus in terms of results and a wellness feeling.”
Want to win a free skin consultation at a Biologique Recherche Ambassade? Follow @gloobles on Instagram, register as a member on gloobles.com and email proof of both to info@gloobles.com!