a back-to-nature Portuguese road trip

 A road trip is the ideal way to explore this sprawling region, which extends from the south-east of Lisbon to the Spanish border. The landscape of vineyards, cork trees, and pristine coastline has a rural authenticity, all while being home to design-forward hotels and back-to-nature experiences. 

Comporta 

The perfect introduction to the Alentejo is the little beach town of Comporta. A short drive south of Lisbon, you’ll wind your way through rice fields, pine forests and over sandy dunes, to reach the coast. Comporta ,and the surrounding area, has been drawing travellers seeking a laid-back getaway for years, but has stayed remarkably well-preserved through building restrictions and nature reserve designations. Explore the Sado Estuary, an idyllic destination that counts flamingos, bottlenose dolphins, and dozens of bird species among its residents. Or, simply spend a few days beachside along the turquoise waters of Praia da Comporta – taking a break from lying in the sun only for a leisurely lunch at beachside restaurant, Sal, one of the loveliest settings for freshly-cooked fish and sharing bowls of coriander rice.  

Try Vermelho in nearby Melides, the first hotel created by famed shoe designer Christian Louboutin, a striking powder-blue bloutique. Expect Iberian design combined with a maximalist approach, alongside pops of Louboutin’s signature red, all just minutes from the coast. There’s also Sublime Comporta, where romantic and modernist cabanas look out onto 17-acres of pine and cork trees. A dinner at the Sublime’s restaurant Sem Porta comes recommended, with a menu that draws from Alentejo traditions, the nearby seaside, and the property’s garden. Or Quinta da Comporta which has an impressive spa and rice-field views from the pool. 

Évora 

After Comporta, head an hour and a half east to Évora. You’ll enter through the city’s medieval walls – though its roots go all the way back to Roman times, with the still-standing Roman ruins of the Temple of Diana at the city’s core. Break up a day wandering through Évora’s tiled streets with lunch at Hibrido, an unassuming and welcoming spot that highlights the Alentejo’s seasonal, regional bounty with plates of local pork and cured river fish. Or, try Origens for a more contemporary take on Alentejo cuisine and ingredients.  

While there are options to book a room within the city itself, a stay outside of Évora offers a quieter way to immerse oneself in the Alentejo’s beautiful landscapes. A short drive from Évora, Casa Na Terra is an architectural marvel. Designed by architect Manuel Aires Mateus, the sculptural building feels embedded in the landscape itself, making the connection to the land even more palpable. With three ensuite rooms with private patios, the entire home is available to rent for an otherworldly stay. 

Another option, just minutes away, is São Lourenço do Barrocal. The stunning retreat is a 200 year-old, family-run estate  that’s home to a winery, a farm, two farm-to-table restaurants, and a spa. A stay here is a serene one that feels more like home than hotel, spend the day meandering the estate on horseback, olive oil tasting directly from the property’s olive grove, or with a wine tasting and tour of the vineyards. 

Estremoz 

Finally, just 40-minutes north, discover Estremoz. Known for its beautifully white buildings and white marble deposits, it’s also home to the recently opened Museu Berardo Estremoz, which has one of the country’s largest collections of azulejos – Portugal’s iconic tiles. As for where to stay, the hilltop boutique hotel of Dá Licença ideally expresses the beauty of Estremoz. Sitting within a landscape of 13,000 olive trees and marble, the peaceful hotel also has an onsite gallery with collectible design and art to peruse. 

The Alentejo’s rural landscape means that the night sky here is known for being particularly magnificent. As one of the least light-polluted places in Europe, it’s well worth it to step outdoors and gaze upwards on a clear night. And, a trip to the Dark Sky Alqueva observatory is an even better way to take full advantage. The surrounding area is a protected night sky reserve, and stargazing at the observatory with powerful telescopes allows for otherworldly views of stars, planets, and galaxies above. On a clear night, the sky is so full of stars that it feels still light, with the glow of each spilling into the next. Here, the beauty of the Alentejo feels at its pinnacle – an effortless invitation to move at a slower rhythm.