24 hours: divergent Dakar

Near the bustling Place de l'Independance —  Dakar’s most important square, where the city was founded in 1857 — Seku-Bi occupies a pair of grand French colonial villas enveloped in lush greenery, with sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean. Ethiopian owner Yodit Eklund (the founder of Africa’s first surf brand, Bantu Wax) preserved original features such as the terrazzo flooring while infusing the hotel with Dakar’s creative spirit. Look out for upcycled metal furniture from designer Ousame MBaye, wooden stools from Botswana-based studio Mabeo and staff uniforms by local designer Adama Paris. Kicking back by the hotel’s plunge-pool, amid frangipani-filled gardens, is the perfect respite after a day of sightseeing. 

Senegal’s rich ceramics tradition—one largely upheld by women—faces an uncertain future, but BAN Workshop is working to keep it alive. Founded in 2020 by three Dakar-based ceramicists, this multi-use space is more than just a production studio. It doubles as a boutique, café and cultural/community hub, offering terracotta and enameling workshops led by skilled artisans. In 2023, it expanded its mission with a free two-year training program, giving young artists from working-class backgrounds a chance to develop their craft. Adjacent to the BAN Workshop ceramic studio, this indoor-outdoor café, run by chef Aïda Gaye, is a must for Sunday brunch, featuring espresso-based drinks alongside healthy fare such as cowpea falafel, grilled okra and cassava tabbouleh. 

If you’re looking to scoop up a Senegalese-crafted souvenir, look no further than Le Sandaga, a meticulously curated boutique owned by stylist Khadija Aisha Ba. The downtown emporium brims with covetable finds: vintage Air Afrique posters; colorful boubous (a traditional wide-sleeved robe) from the shop’s Naomi Campbell-backed in-house line, L’Artisane; and hard-to-find Senegalese vinyl records, magazines and books, such as fashion designer Oumou Sy's biography.  

From the 15th to 19th century, this island was home to the largest slave-trading center on Africa’s coast. Today, visitors take a 30-minute ferry ride to walk around the island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and tour the House of Slaves, a 18th-century-prison-turned-museum known for its haunting “Point of No Return”—a sobering reminder of the millions who passed through its doors. 

Do like the locals and swap your standard workout for a run along the Corniche Ouest, a scenic stretch of coastal trail that weaves along the Atlantic Ocean, offering stunning views of landmarks such as the Mosque of Divinity and the African Renaissance Monument. Time your run to sunrise and sunset, when the sky is streaked with pink and the temperatures are mild. 

Set within the stylish Seku-Bi Hotel, a collection of French colonial villas perched on the Petite Corniche with sweeping Atlantic Ocean views, Il Pappagallo is an ideal spot for date night. Dine on the lush terrace overlooking the plunge pool or settle into the high-ceilinged dining room, where chef Oumar Ngom, who trained in Italy for 18 years, serves up refined Italian-influenced dishes like risotto with cuttlefish and prawns.

Founded in 2018 by Senegalese gallerist Océane Harati, OH Gallery provides a permanent platform for Senegalese artists beyond the Dakar Biennale, showcasing works by major names like Soly Cissé and Viyé Diba in a bright, airy exhibition space in the Plateau district.

The Dakar outpost of the Ivory Coast-based Galerie Cécile Fakhoury is a key hub for contemporary African art, spotlighting talent from across the continent and diaspora. (The gallery also has a location in Paris’s 8th arrondissement). Expect to see works by rising Beninese artist Roméo Mivekannin, Senegalese painter Cheikh Ndiaye and Ouattara Watts, an Ivory Coast-born American artist whose pieces are also part of MoMA’s collection.

A spiraling statement staircase leads to the upper-floor exhibition spaces of Selebe Yoon (meaning "crossroads" in Wolof), a downtown contemporary gallery housed in a striking 1950s modernist landmark. In addition to its 1,000-square-meter zone, it includes a public library, artist studios and living quarters for visiting artists. Previous exhibitions have featured sculptor Alioune Diouf and French-Beninese photographer Melinda Fourn. It’s worth keeping an eye on the gallery’s Instagram page to stay abreast of happenings such as lectures and art-focused walking tours.