Name a better way to explore Egypt than on a boat across the Nile. Stopping off at various villages and markets along the way, this the perfect activity-come luxurious stay, for those after a blend of relaxation and culture. Not to mention the culinary masterminds that will be travelling with you!

After dark, pull up a plastic chair at Halawa, a classic Egyptian ahwa where shisha, strong coffee and backgammon come with a soundtrack of Cairo’s honking horns. No polished tables or perfect lattes here, just a roadside ritual that feels distinctly Cairo.

For a taste of Egyptian home cooking, make your way to Fasahet Somaya near Tahrir Square. Somaya Al-Asyoty serves a changing daily menu of unapologetically homestyle dishes – including mulukhiya, the famously silky soup made from mallow leaves, when you’re lucky. The tiny spot is open only from 5 to 7pm, so call ahead or risk missing the pot.

Cafe Riche, has been a meeting place/bar in downtown Cairo for bohemians, intellectuals and revolutionaries since it opened in 1908. It has lost none of its allure and still feels beautifully seedy and louche. This is the place to go if you want to take the city’s temperature. Smoking (like everywhere in Cairo) is allowed indoors, which is why locals congregate to chew the fat, gossip and enjoy life, music and opinions on full blast.