After dark, pull up a plastic chair at Halawa, a classic Egyptian ahwa where shisha, strong coffee and backgammon come with a soundtrack of Cairo’s honking horns. No polished tables or perfect lattes here, just a roadside ritual that feels distinctly Cairo.

It's now one of Cairo's most coveted addresses. What was once Egypt's tallest tower is now one of the city's chicest serviced apartments. The iconic Art Deco building comprises five one- to three-bedroom apartments, furnished with pieces sourced from historic Egyptian homes, textiles handcrafted by local weavers, and antiques and artworks from leading galleries. Complete with a landscaped terrace overlooking downtown, and a home-from-home sense of privacy – with the addition of a private butler, a complimentary driver, a chef on request, and insider guides to the neighbourhood.

Abou Tarek has a humble exterior, but it has fast become the most famous Koshary restaurant in downtown Cairo. Hearty and delicious this Egyptian staple, consisting of pasta, fried rice and lentils topped with tomato, chickpeas, and onions, is the perfect pick-me-up. And, demonstrative of some good fast-food!

For a taste of Egyptian home cooking, make your way to Fasahet Somaya near Tahrir Square. Somaya Al-Asyoty serves a changing daily menu of unapologetically homestyle dishes – including mulukhiya, the famously silky soup made from mallow leaves, when you’re lucky. The tiny spot is open only from 5 to 7pm, so call ahead or risk missing the pot.