Alex Eagle

This 220,000-work collection captures the essence of British society. There is a vibrant painting of Zadie Smith by Toyin Ojih Odutola as well as oils of Shakespeare and Lord Byron, and the annual Taylor Wessing Photo Portrait exhibition is always a joy. For anyone passing, it’s worth stopping just to look at the bronze doors scribbled with the faces of 45 women by Tracey Emin.

This world-class address houses the greatest collection of paintings in the country. There’s Jan van Eyck’s The Arnolfini Portrait, the medieval Wilton Diptych and, in the Sainsbury Wing, a phenomenal collection of Italian Renaissance works. The exhibition programme is also wonderful. What a lot of people don’t know is that it’s open until 9pm on Fridays, so go late and then nab a table around the corner at The Portrait.

For some reason, the area around Tate Modern is a bit of a dead zone for great bars and restaurants. But just across the river is a restaurant owned by the founders of Frieze magazine and art fairs, which has exceptional attention to detail. There’s still-warm sourdough from its bakery next door, snacks of fried feta with honey and chilli, and generous plates of artichoke or slow-grilled carrots with labneh. A sophisticated spot that’s not trying to fit into a scene.

Ikoyi is responsible for a new wave of West African dining in the city. Chef Jeremy Chan’s surprise tasting menu is made up of flavours such as jollof rice (reimagined with a lobster custard) and plantains (topped with a spiced efo emulsion). Game-changing cooking for a blow-out supper.