For some reason, the area around Tate Modern is a bit of a dead zone for great bars and restaurants. But just across the river is a restaurant owned by the founders of Frieze magazine and art fairs, which has exceptional attention to detail. There’s still-warm sourdough from its bakery next door, snacks of fried feta with honey and chilli, and generous plates of artichoke or slow-grilled carrots with labneh. A sophisticated spot that’s not trying to fit into a scene.


