The Victory
When beloved Dulwich neighbourhood restaurant Franklins shut up shop after 26 years in business, local restaurateur Jamie Younger (of the nearby and also beloved Begging Bowl) felt he had to do something about it. Taking the former pub’s original name, The Victory now serves pub-like food with serious Mediterranean flair. Start with smoked eel gildas or chopped egg mayonnaise with Cantabrian anchovy soldiers and then share the whole roast poulet jaune served two ways: the breast, with tarragon, marsala and autumn truffles, then the crisp leg with lamb’s lettuce.
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This, the little sibling to neighbourhood bistro Levan, might just be even more fun. It's mini, with moody lighting and high stools lined up against the bar and windows where locals sip organic and biodynamic wines recommended by charming and familiar staff and graze on French-influenced dishes from the chalkboard menu. Our pick is slices of baguette with saucisson and pickles, the devilled egg with Kewpie mayo and trout roe followed by a bavette, frites and a salad to share (delivered from the restaurant next door). Always buzzy, it feels like the place to be.
Named after 1970s New York DJ Larry Levan (the owners are music-mad), this bistro is always buzzing. The space has an open kitchen, deep blue walls and a dining room in two parts, while the refined menu is big on cheesy comfort (Comté fries with saffron aïoli, gnudi with wild garlic and Lincolnshire Poacher). There’s an extensive natural wine selection and a strong playlist. Next door at Bar Levan there is more biodynamic wine and late opening on weekends. A grown-up neighbourhood duo that Londoners travel for.
