There’s a buzz around whatever landlord Oisín Rogers does, but at Denman Street’s The Devonshire, it’s reached fever pitch. In the pub and in huge crowds outside, young things come to split the G – the Guinness drinker’s challenge. While upstairs, Ashley Palmer-Watts (a Heston Blumenthal alumnus) is dishing up prawn cocktails and steaks at a very reasonable lunchtime rate. Reservations (bookable three weeks ahead) disappear in minutes. Fingers at the ready for London’s hottest gastropub.



