Extroverted chef patron Jeremy Lee’s menu of oysters with shallot vinegar and suet-crust pies served with mash is very British. His (fairly mini) signature smoked eel and horseradish sandwich is a must-order at lunchtime when light streams through the Art Deco stained-glass windows. But a table in the members’ club dining room upstairs is the ultimate invite, and where guests will find Jeremy doing the rounds.




