Inspired by chef Peppe Belvedere’s Sardinian heritage, dishes here celebrate the sea. Raw scallops with a broad bean vinaigrette, perhaps, or fregola with cockles and tomato; and on the wood-fired grill there’s John Dory and Dover sole, served with deep-red radicchio salads. From the outside it looks like a retro caff but the wood-panelled dining room in the back is stylishly understated. A sunny Sardinian secret.

