Bowls of "Dad's Broth" are served alongside a sour apple mezcal margarita. It's an overwhelmingly good start. To follow the Hausu open kitchen - based below ground level so that you can see all of the magic unfold - serves plates of deep-fried scallop and prawn toast, perfectly charred skewers of cabbage doused in sweet to sour concoction of tahini and molasses, cod cheeks bathed in mojo verde and sprinkled with spring onion and the iconic kohlrabi cake topped with a rich curry sauce and jerusalem artichoke puree. The flavours are top-notch, the wines slurpable and the hi-fidelity sound system in the background is pure perfection. 

This is exactly the sort of restaurant Peckham does well. There’s not really anything to say about the interiors, and ideally you wouldn’t visit the loos – because it turns into the neighbourhood’s in-the-know nightclub, The Carpet Shop, after dark. But arrive before then and join the queue for the tempura aubergine and spicy short rib tacos and you won’t be disappointed. Even better are the sweet corn esquites with chipotle and chilli nuts, alongside buttery bowls of refried beans.