The man in charge of the onion bhajis and okra fries is ex-Roti King chef Prince Durairaj, while serious drinkers will recognise Simone Pugi from Soho’s Bar Termini. You’ll want to order extra roti to mop up all the sauces, possibly the cocktails too. One of London’s much-loved pubs that is no longer a pub, serving some of the city’s best curry.

This understated noodle bar is a study in flavour, bringing together Malay and Chinese influences in the signature laksas. The soups are sour with a not- insignificant spicy kick (first timers should definitely stick to mild) and the Malaysian fried chicken is grease- free and crisp. An affordable midweek supper spot that never disappoints.

A dream local gastropub with a roaring log fire in winter and a small courtyard out the back for summer drinks. Book a table in the simple dining room for a Sunday roast topped with starters such as Cantabrian anchovies with fennel and tailed with an excellent sticky toffee pudding.

In a former laundrette in a slightly obscure corner of Highbury is the fishy sibling of north London favourites Primeur and Jolene. The old industrial block space is dominated by communal tables, the menu by the Cornish catch of the day – from mussels to monkfish. A banger of a neighbourhood restaurant in a previously overlooked enclave.