Mark Gurney and Matt Bushnell have made a name for themselves – in south London at least – with neighbouring Peckham restaurants Levan and Bar Levan. But this, their first central London opening, demands a new audience. Thanks to chef Essa Fakhry (formerly of Planque) it’s found one pretty quickly, pairing excellent ‘mini’ martinis on arrival with a Parisian bistro-style menu of roast cauliflower and comté quiche, rich mushroom vol-au-vents and coq au vin jaune pie. Don’t skip the chocolate mousse topped with a puddle of olive oil and flakes of sea salt.



