Above the rocky coves of Monte Argentario, Torre di Cala Piccola feels wonderfully unchanged – the sort of place built in the 1960s when people understood the value of a good view and then wisely left it alone. The rooms are all terracotta floors, local stone, crisp white linens and handcrafted details, with the Tyrrhenian Sea never far from sight. Below, a cliffside beach club clings to the rocks, where ladders disappear straight into impossibly clear water, and the old watchtower still keeps its eye on the horizon. 

Not every local neighbourhood spot boasts a seafood menu as extensive, and deliciously fresh as La Sirena. With great wines and dishes varying on the catch-of-the-day, this place won't let you down.