On the lane down to Scauri's port, Kayà Kayà is a rustic bar spilling out onto the harbour with the lively swagger of chic aperitivo seekers and beach dwellers who’ve spent the afternoon limpet-like on the rocks after lunch. Alongside well-mixed spritzes and cold local wine, the kitchen turns out generous sharing plates - think fresh seafood, simple caper-studded salads, bruschette and just-caught fish.

