Cagliari
in Southern Sardinia

Founded in 1838 by Lazzaro Canepa, Antico Caffè has historically been the hangout for Cagliaritani. Looking straight onto the Bastione di Saint Remy, it was carefully restored in 1998 by the Ruggieri family and continues to embody the spirit of a Liberty-era café, where refined Sardinian dishes are served on marble-topped tables. Open from early-morning espressos to late nights of astice alla catalana (chilled lobster with olive oil, lemon, tomatoes, and red onion) and seafood fregula.

Overlooking Piazza Yenne, the elegant Caffè Svizzero has been a city institution since 1901. Recently renovated, it remains a go-to meeting spot for locals, who gather beneath the wide outdoor parasols or inside at marble tables over espresso or spritz (often with a copy of L'Unione Sarda in hand). Open from breakfast through dinner, it serves custard-filled cornetti and pizzette sfoglia (flaky puff pastries topped with tomato, capers and anchovies) alongside Danish pastries and an extra-sweet Vietnamese iced coffee.

Usually, Cagliari’s café scene tends to stick to tradition. That’s the opposite of what pastry chef Gabriele Giambastiani set out to do with Matrice, a contemporary pasticceria agricola in Piazza Yenne. With its open, glass-walled lab, the space invites passersby into a literal sweet-watching: croissants, cinnamon rolls, and delicate mignons are crafted in full view. Rooted in a farm-to-pastry ethos and set within warm sandstone and olive wood interiors, breakfast and aperitivo are served daily – best paired with the signature Caffè Matrice, where a melting praline turns espresso into dessert.

A family-run business since 1955, now with five locations across town, Pirani serves breakfast pastries and cakes alongside a glorious culurgiones dumpling on pecorino fondue with Sichuan pepper, broad beans and balsamic sauce. At its newest spot inside the elegant Palazzo Doglio, make sure to try its pizzetta sfoglia (flaky puff pastry topped with tomato, capers and anchovies) for a serious taste of Cagliari.

At the recently reimagined Marinella, large glass windows open onto the sea, while the terrace has views of the Gulf of Angels and the distant Sella del Diavolo. Inside, the café pairs classic pastries with ginseng or pistachio cappuccinos, while upstairs the terrace restaurant and pizzeria serve seaside plates. Our tip? Try the spaghetti with red lobster or the pizza finished with mullet bottarga.