An important Jesuit church with two incredible trompe l'œil frescoes by Andrea Pozzo. For the best views of this dizzying work, stand on the small yellow spot on the nave floor and look up. 

Down a narrow alley, a two-minute walk from the Trevi Fountain, Al Moro has been drawing Romans since the 1920s – its wood-panelled dining rooms hung with posters and paintings gifted by generations of regulars. Fellini was one of them and cast the founder in Satyricon. Valentino was another. Order the Amatriciana – bucatini with guanciale, tomato and pecorino – or the house Spaghetti alla Moro, a lighter, peppery take on carbonara that has been on the menu for as long as anyone can remember. Book ahead or arrive early if you want a table outside.

Just a short amble from the Trevi Fountain and you'll come across this bistro-style restaurant with great ossobuco and fantastic fish. Order the great selection of raw seafood and the cheese cake with wild fruits.