Down a narrow alley, a two-minute walk from the Trevi Fountain, Al Moro has been drawing Romans since the 1920s – its wood-panelled dining rooms hung with posters and paintings gifted by generations of regulars. Fellini was one of them and cast the founder in Satyricon. Valentino was another. Order the Amatriciana – bucatini with guanciale, tomato and pecorino – or the house Spaghetti alla Moro, a lighter, peppery take on carbonara that has been on the menu for as long as anyone can remember. Book ahead or arrive early if you want a table outside.

