Most pizzaioli around Naples are men – mould-breaking Donna Stella bucks the tradition, owned by Lorenza and Germana, who fire hand-spun dough to pillowy perfection in a fragrant lemon grove. The sisters also run cooking classes that start by picking produce in the vegetable patch. Whichever pizza you choose, make sure it comes crowned with a squashable whole buffalo mozzarella, and wash it down with the homemade lemonade.



