Few things can outshine the natural beauty of Amalfi, but this nearly 200-year-old bakery – firing up the ovens since 1830 – gives even the ravishing Duomo next door a run for its money. The Pansa family still oversee this institution: follow the lead of past artistic fans Ibsen and Wagner and settle in with a pasticciotto amalfitano, a stuffed biscuit with a creamy filling made with local lemons.

Hidden amongst the maze-like streets and stairs of Amalfi is the Ristorante L'Abside. Their fresh tagliolini is tossed through with lemon and raw red prawns, their Genoese ragù slowly baked. Top this off with a stellar view of the charming square and a glass of wine carefully selected from their cellar. 

Most pizzaioli around Naples are men – mould-breaking Donna Stella bucks the tradition, owned by Lorenza and Germana, who fire hand-spun dough to pillowy perfection in a fragrant lemon grove. The sisters also run cooking classes that start by picking produce in the vegetable patch. Whichever pizza you choose, make sure it comes crowned with a squashable whole buffalo mozzarella, and wash it down with the homemade lemonade.

On inky blue plates and colourfully patterned platters, this homespun trattoria whips up Costiera and Naples classics – fluffy potato croquettes, octopus and potato salad, pasta al forno stuffed with melted mozzarella. The meatballs or a Genovese pasta made with beef and slow-cooked onions make a nice change from fish.