Pioneering the first wave of Athens’ new gastronomy was Linou Soumpasis & Sia on Psyrri’s Melanthiou Street. An idea conceived by friends Myrsini and George, the duo finally opened their restaurant-come-candle shop at the end of 2021 – complete with minimal white interiors, toughened up with studded aluminium tables and chairs, a St John-style nose-to-tail approach and a natural, Greek-focused wine list. Chef Lukas Mailer’s changing menu of (mostly) fish and meat uses simple Greek ingredients and flavours that surprise: think raw shrimp with roasted brussels sprout leaves and fried cod collars with aioli.

Linou Soumpasis is a casual and contemporary taverna with a dedication to delicious dishes made with organic ingredients. Here it is all about back to the basics: steel tables, simple glassware, silver candles and produce-driven food. The result? One of our go-to spots for dinner in Athens. 

Manari in Downtown Athens is a modern imagining of the traditional taverna with a cosy vibe and a no-waste approach to its meaty menu. The latest project from New York-born Ari Vezené, the visionary who has helped to shape Athens’s restaurant landscape with Birdman and Nolan among others, most of its menu is cooked over an open wood fire. Plates are generous in the traditional style, so come with a big table to share platters of chicken, chops and steaks by the kilo, alongside elevated versions of traditional salads.