Pioneering the first wave of Athens’ new gastronomy was Linou Soumpasis & Sia on Psyrri’s Melanthiou Street. An idea conceived by friends Myrsini and George, the duo finally opened their restaurant-come-candle shop at the end of 2021 – complete with minimal white interiors, toughened up with studded aluminium tables and chairs, a St John-style nose-to-tail approach and a natural, Greek-focused wine list. Chef Lukas Mailer’s changing menu of (mostly) fish and meat uses simple Greek ingredients and flavours that surprise: think raw shrimp with roasted brussels sprout leaves and fried cod collars with aioli.