If Saint-Tropez ever gets too much, Ramatuelle is ten minutes inland and a world away. Café de l’Ormeau has been on the village square since the 1940s, and even the new owners, who grew up down the road, knew better than to change it too much. Order the pissaladière, the Niçois cousin of pizza with slow-cooked onions, anchovies and black olives, find a spot on the shaded terrace with a carafe of rosé, and watch the village go by.


