Bòu means "fishing net" in Provençal, and the restaurant sits at the quieter end of Saint-Tropez’s port, past the superyachts, where the old fishing boats are still moored. The interiors are elegant and restrained, lovely dark wood, the only touches of colour are the blue striped cushions. The fish comes from local boats and is grilled to perfection – order the loup if it’s on the menu that day.

