With its humble exterior Le Café des Delices merges into the beige, more rugged Belleville establishments. The red tiles remain, though now, the terracotta flooring dazzles and the zinc-plated bar sparkles. Édouard Lax - also owner of beloved Boulangerie Le Petit Grain and bistro Le Grain Bain - is the man behind it. Catch the morning sun and settle into one of the maroon and cream wicker chairs scattered across the terrace and join the locals in ordering un café allongé with take-out viennoiseries in tow. Come lunch, the dish of the day varies from buckwheat arancini bursting with gorgonzola, candied pork cheek to the classic moules frites. A few Negroni’s down the line and we’re settling in for the small, sharing plates on the evening menu as the vinyl jam booms on the DJ decks.

